kitchenplay

it's okay to play with your food

Friday, January 16, 2009

Cheddar and Caramelized Onion Pierogies

I'm Polish and Lebanese-Armenian. I could also include Irish and Scottish, but I've never felt particularly influenced by either of those ethnicities, in part (I think) because the food of that region never made it into my home growing up. I ate a lot of tabbouleh, stuffed grape leaves, monte, kielbasas, pierogies.... no haggis.

I still love pierogies. But as good as potato and cheese wrapped in dough is, pierogies were always fairly unexciting. Naturally, once you smother them in sour cream and fried onions they're awesome, but let's be honest... at its core, the pierogie is a bland food item.

The recipe below is basically four things: a good dough from epicurious, mashed potatoes, a sharp and flavorful cheese and a strong vegetable component. While I used cheddar and onions, I think swiss cheese and sauteed minced mushrooms could be another good combination. Maybe sharp provolone and a garlicky spinach or broccoli rabe? Does anyone have any other suggestions?

Cheddar and Caramelized Onion Pierogies
Pierogie Dough
Olive oil
1 onion, sliced into thin half-moons
Some sugar
4 potatoes
A lot of butter
Some heavy (or light) cream
As much sour cream as you like
A lot of extra-sharp cheddar cheese (about 8 oz.)
Salt and pepper

Dough
1) Make dough according to the recipe (link above). The final consistency is supposed to be elastic, but I found it too stretchy to work with the first day. So I chilled it over night and that made a big difference.

Filling
1) Start making the caramelized onions first. Heat olive oil in a large sauce pan. Add onions and about 2 tbls. sugar. I cooked mine on low heat for about an hour till they were golden yellow and very pliable, stirring occassionally and keeping the lid on.

2) Make mashed potatoes however you like them. I peeled and diced my potatoes before boiling to expedite things. I added about 4 tbls. butter, 3 tbls. sour cream and as much cream as produced my desired consistency. I kept them on the less creamy side to produce a make pierogie assembly easier.

3) Grate the cheese directly into the mashed potatoes. I used about a full block of cheese.

4) Add caramelized onions. Mix well.

I made the filling on the same day as the dough and also let it chill over night.

Assembly
1) Invite over at least one friend to help you. I chose Sarah!

2) Bring dough and filling to room temperature (if previously chilled). Have a glass of water handy.

3) Roll out dough on a well-floured surface. The dough is still sticky enough that re-flouring throughout the process is super helpful.

4) Cut out rounds in the dough. I used the rim of a drinking glass with a diameter of 2 1/2 inches.

5) With a round of dough in the palm of your hand, put 1 tsp. or so of filling the middle.

6) Using your finger, wet the perimeter of the dough with water. Don't use too much water or it will make the dough soggy and hard to work with. Seriously, one finger is all you need. ONE.

7) Start closing the pierogie by gently folding the dough in half and pinching the dough together, starting on one side and working your way to the other. Stretch out the dough gently to make the sides meet.

8) Pinch across the rim to make sure its shut.

Ok, so after about my fifth pierogie, three of which had little holes in them or some such nonsense, I said something like, "This is bullshit. I'm never making pierogies again. I can just buy them"

But then, Sarah and I started to get the hang of it. These little potato cheese pouches actually started to look like real pierogies.

When I would reroll the dough scraps, the dough got really dense and lost some of its elasticity. I tried re-chilling it, but there wasn't enough time to chill it properly. So I just started cutting out larger rounds which would need less elasticity to close and that helped.

By the time Sarah and I blanched and pan-fried the pierogies till they were crispy and brown, I was completely on board with this whole "making your own pierogies" thing*. The filling was definitely more tasty than the everyday pierogie and once we got the hang of it, actually making them wasn't that hard or time consuming. Maybe I would invite over two people next time? Just to make things move along...

Sarah brought over salad fixings- greens, dried cranberries, blue cheese, candied pecans and cilantro. While a bit of sour cream was a welcome garnish to the pierogies, I actually found the simple red wine vinegar dressing an even better compliment to the rich pierogies.


* Remember to strain the pierogies before putting them in the hot oil for pan frying.

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Apple Almond Granola

Since I happen to be eating some now, I figured I would share the recipe for the Apple Almond Granola* I made this weekend. It's a variation on the Cranberry-Almond Oat cereal recipe from the Metropolitan Bakery Cookbook. If you are Philly phoodie, you know Metropolitan Bakery. I am not a bread person, and even I like their breads. And it's not just the food. The stores have a rustic Parisian feel that is so nice to step into. Exiting with a delicious pastry is a bonus.

The recipe is perfect for kitchenplay because of how versatile it is. It calls for sliced almonds, cranberries, cinnamon and ground cloves. But you can sub in any nuts, spices and dried fruit you prefer. I also replace the canola oil with an almond oil, which I like a lot.

Variations on Metropolitan Bakery's Cranberry- Almond Oat Cereal



3/4 cup oil (MBC suggests canola; I've used almond oil both times)
1/2 cup honey
1/2 cup pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract (since I'm using almond oil, I omit this)
3 1/2 cups old-fashioned oats
6 to 12 oz. nuts (almonds, walnuts, whatever you like)
1 cup wheat germ
1/2 cup dry milk powder (I've never incorporated this... just didn't get around to buying it)
1-2 tsp. spices (cinnamon, ginger, fresh nutmeg, ground cloves, cardamom, etc.)
1 cup dried fruit (cranberries, cherries, raisins, dates, chopped up apple slices...)

1. Preheat oven to 275 degrees. In a medium saucepan, stir together oil, honey and maple syrup. Place over low heat and bring just to a simmer. (Do not boil.) Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla (and almond, if using) extracts. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, combine the oats, nuts, wheat germ, (milk powder), and spices. Pour the warm honey mixture over the top, then toss to coat the nuts and grains. Divide the nut and grain mixture onto 2 nonstick baking trays. Spread each into a thin layer.

3. Bake the cereal 20 minutes; remove the pans from the oven and stir. Spread the cereal again and bake 15 minutes more or until light golden. Cool the cereal completely on the pans so it becomes crisp. Stir in the dried fruit. Store in an airtight container.

I actually only have one baking sheet (yeah, but i have a panini press and Linzer cookie cutters. Go figure?). And I didn't feel like going through the process twice. So I spread all of the cereal onto the one sheet. It took longer to cook through and I stirred it up 2 or 3 times, but it still worked. Also, this last time, I didn't have enough honey or maple syrup, so I added a bit of brown sugar to the dry mix.

* Granola just sounds so much more appealing than cereal.

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Monday, January 12, 2009

I must like cooking...



















Every now and then I get this itch to cook, a tickle in my brain and fingertips that verges on mild anxiety. It usually follows a drought of home cooking and consists of rabidly looking up recipes, making shopping lists, and strategizing on my way to work.

This past Saturday was supposed to bring snow. In anticipation, I planned a day of staying in and cooking, largely spurned on by the high percentage of canned soups I'd been consuming.

My plan was to cook multiple dishes that I would then freeze- a boon to my health and my finances. I invited friends over to hang out and taste test as needed, a sort of culinary open house.


The to-do list: pinto bean burritos, Whiskey Black Bean soup, pierogies, mac & cheese, orange shortbread and cereal. The burritos came from Martha Stewart (she's a bitch, but knows her stuff); the soup is from kitchenplay; the pierogies a combination of epicurious, Daniel and kitchenplay; the mac & cheese was going to be made up (but I knew I wanted to incorporate my guilty pleasure cheese, Laughing Cow); the shortbread and cereal were adapted from epicurious and the Metropolitan Bakery Cookbook, respectively.

A few things I found helpful over the course of the weekend...
  • start with a CLEAN kitchen

  • accept the fact that the kitchen will then proceed to get VERY messy

  • order take-out for dinner so you don't OD on the food you are making for future consumption. (Not surprisingly, we got Thai food.)

  • invite friends... they sample things, entertain you, and even offer a hand (which for assembling pierogies is a MUST! the more the process resembles an assembly line, the better.)

  • Make sure you have good Tupperware and enough saran wrap for freezer storage. I found these nice Ziploc containers for my soup and also used former take-out containers (right).

Ever the theoretical over-achiever, I had envisioned accomplishing my food goals by the end of the day Saturday, when the impending snow would keep me housebound anyway. The snow didn't happen and I didn't get everything done, but was able to finish up on Sunday (with the exception of the mac & cheese, but eh... a girl's gotta get some sleep.)

Speaking of which, I'm heading to bed now but will post the recipes themselves later this week. Oh, and not everything actually made it into the freezer. As of tonight (Tuesday), the shortbread is kicked, the pierogies demolished, one soup is down and I'm still working my way through the left over burrito and pierogie filling.

Is it the cooking I like so much... or the eating?

Thursday, January 8, 2009

Wallet Watch: PhillyCarShare Discounts

I recently posted a comment on Foobooz about the PhillyCarShare discount at Apamate and realized I should share it with all of you too!

If you are a member of PhillyCarShare, that means you also have a "key to the city," entitling you to various discounts at shops, restaurants, etc. around town.

That includes 10% off your bill at a great tapas place on South Street, Apamate, and all three Pumpkins, the restaurant, cafe and market. Check out the rest of their list through the link above!

Update: Foobooz liked the comment enough to write a post on the Key to the City discounts! Foobooz also picked up on kitchenplay's review of Plan-Eat-Thai today and gave us a shout-out in their Around the Web section. Thanks Foobooz!

BSD... Officially Dead (Almost)

According to Michael Klein... "Starr's Broad Street Diner deal, mired in environmental issues, seems to be dead."

Damn.

Can this place be redeemed? What are these environmental issues anyway? It's a good location, comes with parking, has a community that cares about the neighborhood....

Could Mark Bee of Silk City swoop in and save the day? Should the place be razed completely and built up as something else entirely? And if so, what?

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Crush of the Month: Rachel Maddow

What can't Rachel Maddow do?

Rhodes Scholar, AIDS activist, Air America show host, MSNBC superstar show host... smart, funny, attractive and just plain adorable... AND she loves making classic cocktails!

How can I get her to a SPEC meeting??? Preferably as my date...???

Last week, NY Magazine taped Maddow showing off her mad(dow) skillz* while making a Jack Rose cocktail. Jack Rose is a mix of Apple Jack Brandy or Calvados, grenadine and lime juice. She talks about shaking it till "it's too cold to hold" while wearing those adorugly glasses... swoon!!!

Enjoy the link above.

* yeah, yeah, bad pun, I know...

More Newbold News


The Sad News

The Philly phood scene was abuzz in June with news that Stephen Starr had purchased the Broad Street Diner at Broad and Ellsworth. It was definitely a good sign for me as I looked into buying a house south of Washington and close to Broad. Since then, rumors have been swirling as to what the concept would be... another Continental? Something fun and Greek? Upscale Mexican?

Well, the latest rumor is that nothing will be moving into the old diner. Apparently the site has "environmental issues," a dealbreaker for Starr. And just yesterday, Michael Klein of the Inky revealed Starr's plans for the coming year: bringing back his Blue Angel to 7th and Chestnut and possibly making "fun and Greek" the concept of his Washington Square location. No word about the diner.

That said, nothing has been made official as far as I know. Maybe I'm a Positive Polly, but from reading these various blog postings about Starr, it appears he changes his mind a lot. I'm not giving up on BSD just yet...


The Good News

Another pro of my new neighborhood-to-be was word in July that the owner of the South Philly Tap Room, John Longacre, was planning a coffee shop and take-out beer joint for 15th and Mifflin, Bierista. While take-out beer is plentiful this side of Broad, coffee shops are not. And besides, this was going to be a mix-a-six kinda place, with the fancypants beer one expects at SPTR.

Well, after reading of the Starr fall-out yesterday, I was wondering if Bierista was awash too. After all, the economy isn't doing so well. Maybe you've heard...?

Just last night, word comes from Meal Ticket that Bierista is still in the works, but under the name BREW. Buildout should be completed within the next month, followed by the opening of the coffee shop while the liquor license application goes forward.

I feel slightly conflicted about patronizing a local coffee shop other than B2 at Passyunk and Dickinson, which I LOVE. But I want community business in Newbold to thrive, so I am super excited for BREW to open. If it's anything like the Tap Room (fun, comfortable, with special attention paid to good food and beverage), I think it's going to be a welcome addition.

Monday, January 5, 2009

Food-to-Do List (2009)

I don't really do New Year resolutions; we all know that few people truly stick to them and I don't like the idea that "something is wrong with me and I must fix it in the new year."

That said... I LOVE to-do lists!

So my food-to-do list for 2009 includes the following...
  • Jam

  • Pickle

  • Buy a candy thermometer

  • Don't break my new candy thermometer (third time's the charm???)

  • Compost

  • Start a garden patch behind my house

  • Buy Mark Bittman's new book, Food Matters

Care to share any of your 2009 food goals and wishes?

Thai in Newbold

Thai food isn't something that Philadelphia's restaurant scene does particularly well. Italian, French, pub fare, Indian, Mexican, Chinese... these are the more successfully represented cuisines in town. But a great Thai place opened just down the street from me: Plan-Eat-Thai.

The menu is made up of mostly Thai dishes, with some Chinese and a few random American items. My favorite is the Drunken Noodle: full of Thai basil flavor, topped with peppery slices of lean pork (not the pink, fatty pork that is often served in Asian restaurants). The Dry Chili Cashew Chicken is not dry at all, but served in a reddish brown sauce that is both sweet and spicy. I most recently had the Broccoli Stir Fry with Chicken and even that simple brown sauce was super tasty. Vegetables are always crisp and fresh. And while not an authentic Thai dish, their crab rangoon actually taste like crab, with a hint of curry giving both flavor and a yellow hue to the cream cheese inside. The Thai spring rolls are plump with layers of meat and vegetables.

The Pad Thai is solid, not the best I've ever had but better than most Pad Thai in town. And it does come with slices of fresh mango as a garnish- a nice touch. I think the serving sauces (such as those that came with the spring rolls and crab rangoon) could be more flavorful. They all seem to be a thinner version of duck sauce.

Like Hardena, the ambiance gives no hint to the amazing food inside. It is take-out only, with the bullet-proof glass so common in Asian restaurants and bodegas around here. Instead of a sign, the name of the restaurant is written in paint on the building's exterior. Twice. Just in case you don't see it at first.

Oh and everything is ridiculously cheap. Like dinner for two with an appetizer will run you between $18 and $20. Ridiculous.

Plan-Eat-Thai
1516 Tasker St. (at Hicks and Tasker)
267-687-1778